Elegance in Motion
Building on the athleisure trend, which has brought sporty chic elements into mainstream fashion like never before, a more feminine take on this has emerged with the rise of balletcore. As the name would suggest, balletcore takes its inspiration from dance culture, and it’s a look that’s taken off online; at the time of writing, videos tagged ‘balletcore’ on TikTok have been viewed 17.3 million times.
High fashion has always been inspired by the glamour and discipline of ballet, for example, Chanel started referencing dancewear with full skirting, tulle fabric, and delicate pastels as far back as the 1920s. Christian Dior also sought inspiration from ballet in its groundbreaking 1947 New Look collection, with its full A-line skirts and cinched-in waists.
This year, we’ve seen a revival of the look in new invigorating ways, with Miu Miu’s Fall/Winter 2023 and MM6 Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2023 collections both incorporating elements of ballet styling. These included soft textures like tulle and satin, bows, shapewear, and A-line silhouettes, all offered a nod to ballerina style, with prima ballerinas like Misty Copeland and Tiler Peck as muses for the season.
Translating the trend for the high street, trend-setting celebrities like Hailey Biber and Bella Hadid have been spotted in rose-hued unitards and ballet flats, spurring an array of influencers like Addison Rae to jump on the look too.
Here, we’ll tip-toe into the graceful world of balletcore and discuss how to incorporate dance wear into your everyday wardrobe for an elegant yet practical style this season.
The Essence of Balletcore
At its heart, balletcore is a fantasy, a vision of femininity rooted in the mythology of ballet dancers that takes in both their ethereal on-stage persona and the more practical elements of their hardwearing rehearsal wear. Its signifiers are in the fabrics, like silk, tulle and satin, but also in the details - bows, elastic, wrap-around details on sweaters, and delicate ruffles.
What’s interesting this time around is how it’s evolved; it’s no longer just about the traditional pastel color palette. Shapewear and socks with interesting cut-outs in black bring an almost punk edge to the look, and this year’s must-have shoe, the Valentino rock-stud ballet flat, comes not just in the expected blush pink but also in black and scarlet red.
San Francisco Ballet principal dancer Maria Kochetkova perfectly encapsulates this clash between traditional ballerina and a modern, edgy sense of style in a way that’s earned serious cool points, both from Vogue and her 140,000 Instagram followers.
Dancers are the new ‘it’ girls this season, as evidenced by the fact that LA-based activewear brand Splits59 has partnered with Isabella Boylston, principal dancer with the American Ballet Theatre, on a dance-inspired collection featuring classic pieces with a ballet twist. The must-have item, their Airweight jumpsuit, was on every fashionista’s hit list this summer and has spawned many imitations.
Although historically, balletcore has been criticized for glorifying waif-like appearance, today’s balletcore is more inclusive, with curve influencers like Moe Black illustrating how the look can be interpreted for fashion lovers of all sizes.
Must-Have Balletcore Wardrobe Staples
You don’t have to be a prima ballerina like Sara Mearns or Polina Semionova to work this look into your wardrobe; there are a few essential pieces you can incorporate into your clothing edit that, if implemented correctly, will effortlessly capture the elegance and poise of ballet.
Balletcore fashion essentials include wrap sweaters and soft cardigans, leotards (see Kim Kardashian’s Skims shapewear collection for an updated take on this), and ballet flats. Chanel’s legendary two-tone ballet flats are a great investment for those who like their pieces to retain their value.
For an edgier take on the trend, Miu Miu’s signature ballet flats are a great way to soften some of this season’s more utilitarian styles, like maxi cargo skirts or a leather bomber. Those of us who cling to the vertiginous heels of the noughties will cherish the ability to pop them in your handbag as a failsafe option on a night out.
Surprisingly, Vogue has also called out mesh ballet flats as the unexpected standout shoe trend of 2023.
While many major designers and high street retailers are referencing this look this season, those in the know are going specialist to secure those must-have items.
Repetto, a luxury brand with its roots in dancewear, and the dancers’ clothier of choice, Bloch are having a moment right now, with both launching specially designed ballet core collections that interpret this look for dancers and non-dancers alike.
Mixing Ballet with Streetwear
Ballet isn’t all high society satin and bows, however. There’s a cooler way to wear the look, as exemplified by designers like Balenciaga and artists like Lil Buck, who incorporate ballet elements with streetwear for a style that’s been dubbed ‘urban balletcore’.
There have been many little moments over the past year that have fed into this trend, perhaps the most high profile being when Rihanna enlisted ballet dancer Elsa Stallings to model her Savage X Fenty activewear range, featured in an all-black ensemble of sheer leggings, a sports bra and tutu, en pointe, naturally.
Last year’s collaboration between Boston Ballet soloist Michaela DePrince and Nike also encapsulated this clash of cultures, breaking the boundaries of tradition by infusing streetwear aesthetics with the grace of ballet for a unique and edgy look. Indeed, the Alate Sports Bra she rocked under bomber jackets and metallic cargo pants was a sell-out.
Whether it’s tutus with sneakers, ballet-inspired hoodies, or sporty dancewear under cargo skirts and pants, this new take on streetwear fusion is dynamic and modern.
Embracing the Balletcore Color Palette
Blush pink, soft lavender, and pale blue may not be traditionally associated with autumn/winter, but as the first leaves hit the ground, we’re still not ready to part with these sweet spring colors.
Last year’s Autumn/Winter collection from Rodarte ushered in the ballet core aesthetic with a whimsical take on the modern-day ballerina. There were tulle gowns and feathered capes, pointe shoe-inspired footwear - all in these soft, pastel colors, and the trend shows no signs of abating this winter.
Simone Rocha’s Spring Summer 2024 collection reinterpreted the ballet core trend with pastel-hued enthusiasm, from white tutus against metallics dance dresses with fresh roses sandwiched in tulle, pearls, crystals and beading atop white and blush pink gowns. It told a romantic story that will grip fashion fans in the colder months ahead.
Hair and Makeup for Balletcore
Balletcore beauty is about enhancing your natural assets with barely there make-up and a tonal blush color palette.
Silky eyeshadow in pearlescent colors, lilacs, or soft pink makes the perfect accompaniment to this look, as do nude pink lips (Kylie Cosmetics does a super soft matte lipstick in just the right shade of blush to achieve this look). Skin should be luminous, with a soft sheen; look to Bobbi Brown for the kind of natural, effortless finish this style requires. Mac Cosmetics Extra Dimension blush offers the kind of rosy-cheeked finish any ballerina would be proud of.
Of course, the signature ballerina bun is the cornerstone of this look, and while sleek is good, avoid the gel, keep it natural, and allow your baby hairs to breathe. For style inspiration on this you want to go back to the noughties - Olivia Palermo is the queen of the ‘undone bun’. Compliment it with a silk ribbon or tulle scrunchie for extra style points.
If you’re looking for a bolder look, take inspiration from Lauren Lovette; the former New York City Ballet principal ballerina shocked fans after cutting off her long hair live on Instagram and opting for a pixie cut, which she later grew out into a wavy bob. She wears it with a stretchy alice band for rehearsals and loose and bouncy on her day off - the best of both worlds.
Balletcore Accessories and Finishing Touches
Balletcore is about understated style rather than outré fashion, so when accessorizing, keep to the Coco Chanel mantra and “take one thing off” before you leave the house. Jewellery should be delicate; think fine layered Monica Vinader chains or small Swarovski crystal studs for an elegant finishing touch.
Sarah Jessica Parker (who is herself a trained ballerina) epitomizes this look to a tee, adding her own quirky touch by looping her necklace beneath her bra strap so it dangles over the side of her safety-pinned T-shirt.
Misty Copeland is another one to watch when it comes to nailing the ballet beautiful look - she’s often on the front row of fashion shows and has a penchant for micro bags, in particular the Chanel chain strap micro, which she was seen working at the brand’s recent Tribeca event.
Layering is your friend when it comes to adapting the ballet core look for your everyday life, so finishing details like leg warmers and bows can be added to elevate your ensemble - although be careful not to overdo it and veer into costume territory. One versatile item that is worth working into your repertoire is a sheer scarf. Wear it as a headband, around your wrist, or looped onto your bag as a final finishing detail.
Influential Balletcore Fashion Icons
Fashion and ballet have enjoyed a centuries-long affair that continues to this day. This relationship came into sharper focus in the early part of the 19th century when balletomania really took hold, and couturiers allowed themselves to be influenced by this newly respectable art form. So, although the term ‘influencer’ has really only risen into popular usage over the past decade, you could say that ballerinas were the OG influencers.
Chanel’s 1930s tulle gowns were inspired by the Cotillion Ballet, and more recently the fashion house has revived the trend for its Fall 2023 haute couture show with tulle details and the brand’s signature ballet flats making a reappearance.
Christian Louboutin’s 2019 collaboration with The Royal Ballet featured exquisite party shoes that referenced the company’s iconic production of The Sleeping Beauty. More recently, although known for its vertiginous heels, the brand has released a collection of ballet flats with its signature red soles, which have flown off the shelves faster than Darcey Bussell in a pirouette.
Balletcore is a trend loved by musicians, models, and actors alike; Olivia Rodrigo, Bella Hadid and Sydney Sweeney have all adapted the aesthetic to their personal style. Leg warmers, wrap-around cardigans and ballet flats are now core elements of the A-listers’ off-duty wardrobes.
Ballerinas themselves have become fashion icons in their own right; Misty Copeland now has 1.8 million followers on Instagram and has become a front-row darling during fashion week.
What’s interesting about balletcore in 2023, however, is that it’s real people driving this trend forward on TikTok, on Instagram, and on the streets. It’s been described as “the natural evolution from athleisure”, which could be why so many people are embracing it in their day-to-day lives.
Balletcore for Every Occasion
Balletcore comprises two main aesthetic elements: the romantic on-stage look and the more practical yet feminine rehearsal-wear. This means it’s a versatile trend that you can either dress up for special occasions or tone down for daily activities.
This is a look that can take you from day to night; bodysuits layered with knitwear and A-line skirts make way for ethereal evening wear like tulle gowns with ruffles, sheer stockings, and silk scarves. The same delicate necklaces and studs work with both looks.
Delicate pink ballet slippers are ideal with an evening gown or jeans, or when the weather gets colder, Bloch booties worn over leggings - the ballerina’s warm-up shoe of choice - are a practical alternative.
You don’t have to be a girly girl to wear balletcore, either. Dancer Keenan Kamper works the look in jogging bottoms, padded gilets, and ballet slippers for a more streetwear-influenced take on this trend.
Balletcore can also be adapted as workwear; a well-fitting bodysuit is flattering on any shape, styled under a blazer with trousers and two-toned ballet flats. (The Precious Adams Collection from Move Dancewear has a great selection of these in sizes S to XL). Soft colors mixed with must-have ballerina black make the ideal palette for your balletcore working wardrobe.
Conclusion and Your Balletcore Journey
From basic to ballerina, your fashion transformation will be complete once you’ve added a few key items to your wardrobe. The beauty of balletcore is that it’s all about the layers, many of which you may already have lying around: a well-fitting bodysuit, a wrap-around cardigan, and some practical ballet flats.
By adding a few key items to your look, perhaps a tulle skirt, bow accessories, some ruffles, or leg warmers (check out Ballet Beautiful for a super soft pair in a range of colors), you’ll take that styling to the next level.
This is a look that’s both elegant and practical, so embracing balletcore needn’t be a chore. The key is to let your creativity flow and dance through life with style.
